Santa Lucia farm in Corato is one of the best producers of Castel del Monte wines. Roberto Perrone Capano’s Nero di Troia wine, always thick, full of personality and tannic, is a perfect example of what variety can do on lands of this denomination.
But, before meeting Roberto, I go to visit the famous castle nearby. Castel del Monte in Andria, near Corato, is only one of the 287 monuments built by Frederick II of the Swabian-Norman kingdom. He wanted to build this imposive octagonal castle at the half of 13th century, but it seems it was never completed. Still today, this imposive building is completely empty inside.
At the beginning of 13th century the Swabian Frederick II, future Emperor of Sacred Roman Empire, at the age of four, orphan of both parents, moved from Jesi (in Marche Italian region) to Palermo, where he was educated by an arabian teacher. He could speak many languages, was a man of culture and very clever, who promoted literature and science, and founded in 1224 the university of Naples that, still today, is named after him. Frederick II spent in Italy 28 of his 39 years as Regent of Roman Empire.

A trullo in Corato (Castel del Monte). Once these small trulli were used by countrymen from cold and hot wheater while working in the fields.
I cross wide oliveyards, with my thoughts to this German Ruler whose love for Italy was so deep that he is still adored by Italian people, specially in the south. This is the homeland of the excellent Puglia olive variety “Coratina”, north of the area hit by Xylella desease.
On my way I see little white houses, with agricultural equipment and little orchards outside, all surrounded by low dry walls built with white stones, and my eyes wander here and there, over small well cared vineyards, plants raised as little trees. Right after, I cross Santa Lucia farm gate.
Roberto is a commuter, he works here as a vines grower and in Naples as a financial advisor. Every ten days he crosses the Appennines. When I came here the first time, 20 years ago, I was received by his father Giuseppe “the Lawyer” as everybody used to call him. He was a commuter between Napoli and Corato as well. Perrone Capano family is deeply linked to Santa Lucia farm, owned for centuries. During World War II they left Naples and here found shelter, and ever since they used to spend autumn here with all the family.
The Lawyer had an office in town in Corato always open in autumn months, where everybody could meet him for advice. Whoever had no money to pay such consultancies didn’t pay anything, but sometimes workers and craftmen were asked to provide some work in change. Roberto: «In that case, if they were called, they had to come immediately. My father was a bon vivant and was very generous, but also very demanding. To his workers he used to say only: “please, steal little, so that I do not realize it”.»
Since 1988, back from his experience at South Korea Olimpic Games of Seoul, Roberto – member of the Italian sailing team and sailor since he was very young – takes care of Santa Lucia farm. With his father until 2001, afterwards as only responsible.
Only 50.000 bottles of wine come from the 15 hectares of land. Whatever remains after the soft pressing of the grapes is sold loose, in small drums, on site and to local customers. Direct sale is therefore important, not only bottles to wine lovers, but also loose wine to local customers. «Also in this way our farm is economically in balance. But with such production level I could not afford to live of it.» Explains Roberto with reference to his being commuter between office and farm.
In 1971 the Castel del Monte received its Denominazione d’Origine Controllata (DOC). At the beginning, before the denomination was widened in the following years, Castel del Monte meant a wine made of Uva di Troia grapes, with no more than 35% of other varieties (like Bombino Nero, Montepulciano,or Sangiovese). It is funny that at the time the variety was called “Uva” di Troia, not “Nero”, while in the production regulation the Aglianico was not mentioned.
The present DOCG allows to bottle under the name of Castel del Monte Red pure Aglianico so as pure Montepulciano. Roberto: «In this region Nero di Troia is native, while Aglianico comes from Vulture, in Basilicata next region. Montepulciano have always been here, but they are very simple wines. do not think commercially, otherwise I should demonstrate to the world that also Chardonnay, Cabernet and Merlot here make remarkable wines. But I prefer to make convincing wines with our varieties. The good Nero di Troia are no doubt wines for aging; the bottles ten years old and more are fantastic. I confirm this with pleasure after tasting some Nero di Troia aged in my farm.
Roberto: «In the past wine was never bottled; especially the Nero di Troia was too hard for northern Italy and European consumers, but was highly appreciated as blending wine since provided color, alcool, tannins and acidity. But after the introduction of controlled denominations, the blending wines market dropped, and Puglia producers had to trade their wine by themselves. For this reason in the ‘70s a big number of Puglia DOC was created but, beside few exceptions, they were never caught by the markets.
The tannines content Nero di Troia Castel del Monte is remarkable, especially the Santa Lucia one. Wondering why, Roberto asks me: «How long do you think we leave the wine to macerate on the peels?» Given color and tannins I estimate 14 days. Roberto: «3 days.» In just 72 hours this grape releases such amount of polyphenols! That’s surprising, also knowing that in Santa Lucia they work with rotovinifiers (rotating horizontal fermentation containers), which implies a fast extraction.
Santa Lucia ground is calcareous and, walking through the vineyards, if you’re lucky you can find fossil seashells. The vines are planted at high density, 6000 plants/hectare, to push roots to go deep. As everywhere in Puglia, water is a rare commodity. Roberto: «In Puglia we could never rely on rain. It rains almost never. It has always been like this. They say that the houses here are red because concrete was mixed with wine rather than the precious water. Our drinkable water came from Irpinia, in the near Campania region. But deep 300 mt under sea level there is a layer of waterproof rock covering a big water reserve. It’s only necessary to bring it to surface. Our well is 600 mt deep, since we are 250 mt above sea level.
Without irrigation nothing survives in summer, olives or vines. «It’s a pleasure to chat with Roberto, who transmits so much serenity, but I must go on. We moved to Corato to have a coffee. All over southern Italy a stop at a coffee-bar is always welcome, since any bartender is proud to show how excellent his work is. Coffee must be perfect, extracted by the rules. And it is mandatory to ask for a glass of water, that’s it. A strong and aromatic coffee, a friendly hug, see you Castel del Monte, see you Roberto.
Author: Ändreas März